2nd Anniversary of South Sudan

I was in western equatorial state (WES… or WEq as I prefer to write it) last week…. Yambio then Tambura- which borders Congo.  The people of WES are relatively short, for south sudan- or for what we typically take as a Junubin.  With my 5’6, I felt quite tall - this gave me a false sense of ...confidence, security- and belonging, I guess. 

I almost forgot that this is a country of tall ass people

Today? I was rudely reminded. I went to the John Garang mausoleum for the 2^nd anniversary celebrations, and at one point I had to go looking for the Red-Cross tent. I swear I got, not only totally disoriented, but also claustrophobic. I kept looking up to find landmarks but all I could see was bodies. It was like standing in a forest of trees with no idea of what direction to take next. I believe the average height in the mausoleum was 6’6- with some Nuer and Dinka - Agar easily reaching 6’8-7. (I don’t think I am exaggerating). 

And the place was fully packed. Everywhere you turn.  And nobody was paying attention to whatever was going on in the podium- I didn’t even realize that the official program had started – and did they play the anthem? Cause none of us were aware. (It would have helped to have sound… but no speakers were installed in the main part of the stadium, so instead people were going about their business, dancing, singing, beating drums, showing off their culture.).  *That* added to the claustrophobia.  

Now… why is it that these tall people, 6’6 already, insist on leaping and jumping as part of their dance? Nuer, Dinka-Agar, Dinka-Bor, Mundari, Toposa etc..  Tall as trees and still trying to touch the sky. Amazing. Another reason why I kept looking up and seeing bodies- cause there goes another body reaching for the sky. 

After going around in a few circles... i did finally stumble to the tent (i can't ask for directions- i can't speak Juba Arabic- and although the official language is English- you cant tell that to nobody)

But.... after all that,  now I see why I am short. 

Its not even because my mom’s family comes from Eastern Equatoria- although that does not help.  No.. the dirty secret is that Dinka Malual are not tall. I stumbled onto a sign that said ‘Northern Bahr-el-Ghazal, Pirka Malual Tueng- and no I don’t know what that means- but these are my people. And lo, and behold- I could see eye –to- eye with most of the dancers. Not even one 6’’ in sight. And we weren’t even bothering to jump and leap and touch the sky. No.... we politely tied weights to our ankles (old metal cans filled with ... something that makes sound- basically a percussion instrument)  to ground us and were stamping our feet to make the anklets jingle (these are called anklets, no?).  As if to say, no.... we prefer to be close to earth, thank you.

So.. I now clearly see why my dream to reach 6’ was aborted even before I was at the starting line.  I think its all very unfair.

nb: i will post some pictures. oh and probably add on a few ramblings later

On Sudanese cuisine

Bear with me as this conjumbled .
I am constantly aggravated when reading some chirpy expat blithely shit on Sudanese food.
However......it pains me to admit eating out in Sudan generally is a sad experience outside of a few select local dishes.
Why is our food so....unremarkable?
I don't have an answer to this and I doubt many Sudanese do either{excluding those who vehemently disagree }.
Going back certain historical factors must be considered.
And even before that one must reach an internal consensus on what the great culinary cultures of the world are{and take into our consideration the deep seated western bias any foodie internalizes }.
What makes them great and how did they get there?
 Sudanese in general do not have a great interest in food.We eat to live.Gluttony is a shameful sin and one that is publicly ridiculed.The consensus is the food should be good,but not too much fuss should be made of it, and if something is put in front of you eat it and shut the fuck up.Not exactly an enviroment conducive to culinary excellence.
Maybe its the great ingredients? Our meat is some of the greatest{ free range,mostly organic} and not in much need of masking and hiding flavors or odors.Vegetables are fresh if somewhat limited.
Perhaps our historical poverty? This was a land of herders and farmers who alternated btw drought and floods.
The existing cuisine is heavily influenced by Egyptian and Turkish traditions that creeped in during their brief ruling of Sudan.
The original cuisine  of the overwhelming majority of Northern Sudan is porridge{Aseeda},gurassa[a thick fluffy pancake and a relative of injera{kisra}, sauced with dried meat reconstituted in a tomato paste sauce{tagaleeya},or roab{a yoghurt based sauce} both containing waayka{dried okra pounded into a fine powder} which is the most popular base on its own.
All simple dishes the ingredients which can travel for months without spoiling.
More mental farts forthcoming.