I have the worst sense of direction- and I didn’t realize
just how badly until the other day. I am currently in Western Equatoria State-
WES (Mundri West and Mvolo Counties)
The other day I went
to have lunch at my regular spot in Mundri West town-Safari Hotel. If ever
driving into the town, it is just after the South Sudan Red Cross, on the right
side of the road, just on the edge of town. Can’t miss it! it’s a rather large
restaurant and quite swanky by WES standards – shit, I’d wager by South Sudan
Standards - at night they serve beer, and play Congolese music videos on the
T.V. (If I lived here it would quickly become my local pub.) The owner, this nice lady named Night, caters
to my needs (I have her phone number –and call from Juba when I know Im
coming to Mundri –its that serious). Last week she made me the local specialty
–Mbirinda, (which is a local bean that is ground, cooked with peanut butter and
something called Combo – no I cant describe what that is, all I know is that
its amazingly good. Yes, that’s my plug for the restaurant!
Anyway, I have been going to this place all week. I’ve been
going to this place everytime I’m in Mundri. But, on this particular day, when
going back to the guesthouse, I took one wrong turn and got completely
lost. I had NO IDEA where I was. All the tukuls and compounds and scenery were
exactly alike. I kept taking turns and wandering into people’s yards (okay, it all looks like one big yard with huts strategically placed here
and there). Once or twice I walked into families having lunch under their mango
tree. One girl (after I passed her about 2 times- while trying to look
nonchalant) finally asked whose house I was looking for.
What’s really sad about this scenario is that twice, at night, I have
made my way from Night’s restaurant– to guesthouse - by flashlight without
getting lost. This incident was in broad daylight. And I promise it wasn’t an
ulterior move to find out what villagers do to fill out their days.
But yes, I finally
found my way. I wonder how anyone navigates here. It gets completely and
absolutely dark at night. Very few people have any
electrical/light source. And even during daylight, everything looks almost the
same. (or is it just me)
Im back in Juba on Thursday – and I need to write about
Juba. Im currently in Mvolo. Yesterday I witnessed a
localized form of football hooliganism (maybe hooligan is too strong a
word). I went to watch the local ‘league.’ Mvolo County (WES) vs Wulu County
(Lakes States). Watching the game was in itself an event (why are there two
soldiers – one with a gun – watching over spectators and making sure no-one crosses
the chalk mark into the pitch, one team scored, and a group of women with
umbrellas swarmed the pitch, why the umbrella I have no idea). Anyway, after
the game- like 100 kids ran into the pitch, mobilized and organized and
then took off singing and dancing into the town, completely blocking the main
road for about 30 minutes. This was the major ‘highway’ into Mvolo town (like 3 cars a day, but still). I am not sure
if they even knew who won. It looked like fun!