Wednesday, October 31, 2012

I love this country


Like most people I love my country.

I bitch  ,moan and complain so much about the downward cycle we're in, I almost forget how much I enjoy Sudan.

This epiphany struck during Eid .Eating large quantities of grilled meat and drinking yoghurt and sprite concoctions with family and friends generally improves one mood. Getting my sons jallabiyya tailored and seeing him strut around in his new moccasins. Watching the wife put on all manners of gold that I bought for our wedding and taking genuine pleasure in dressing up{and looking great}.Attended a few weddings and at one of the family weddings I was mobbed by little cousins demanding Eid money.Then ran into a distant uncle who was rumored to be going through a separation with his wife. He was smiling encouragingly at her and she was shyly saying hi to the family. Seeing my families warm welcome of her {and her husband’s} obvious relief and happiness, I was touched.

Economy, politics and other factors be damned .No place like home.

 

Thursday, October 18, 2012

Tension in Juba



I’ve been trying not to write much on politics- but politics is a day-to-day aspect of life here and is difficult to ignore.

On Monday there were protests within the town. My office is relatively far from the protest sites so couldn’t really hear or see anything- but… the airport was closed for a few hours in the morning, there were (rumoured) gunshots –in one of -the army barracks (why is this even within the town?) and the police shot live ammunition at the protesters around Juba Universityß I don’t even know what to say about this.

Northern Bahr-el-Ghazal (NBeG) is pretty upset about the decision to include the 14-mile area in the demilitarized zone and Abyei is upset that the issue of their referendum is taking too long to resolve/ was ignored in the recent Addis Ababa agreement. In general, there are those who feel like we keep giving up too much during the negotiations.

There also seems to be quite a bit of confusion regarding the nitty-gritty of the Addis Ababa agreement in general, e.g. some in NBeG believe that it means we are giving up area-14 to the North.
(Btw, here’s a map of disputed border regions: North-South Sudan – this should immediately give you an idea of how long the border demarcation issue will take to resolve)

These are some of the reasons for the protests.

There have been rumours of attempted coups- Salva finally addressed this recent spate of rumours at Bilpam: coup. However, rumours have been persistent all year- a few roadblocks were put up on the roads leading to the president’s house, and the road leading to the airport is now permanently closed after 7.00pm, there was also recent change in the presidential guards.

Some claim that these coup attempts (whether real or imagined) are led by those from Jonglei State–or rather former close allies of Garang’ who feel sidelined by the Kiir government.  And it cant help the situation when the son of the former leader lends his voice in criticism about the current govt’s direction- and does this with the help of what could possibly be the worst type of journalist (rant posing as news article ). But who knows…. I’ve also heard its affiliated with NBeG.

Not to mention the soldiers overall disenchantment with a recent decision to cut their pay.
Not to mention whatever else is going on in the country

I guess I should take it as some sign of progress that despite all this the town isn’t in lockdown/curfew, with soldiers at every corner checking all cars and harassing pedestrians- which is what usually happened in the most recent past.


An aside in apropos to nothing: Recently I was exposed to something I have never actually thought of: the notion that people from Blue Nile and Kordofan, who are in SPLM –which now becomes SPLM-North- and are currently living in South Sudan are accorded refugee status. It feels like a mental disconnect: being a refugee in a country you fought to liberate, and for some- you consider to be your country.  Does the recent agreement mean that they are now not refugees? (For me this raises a wider question about citizenship and governments’ monotony over according individuals legal status; I don’t necessarily believe this should be in the hands of governments. Perhaps my fellow blogger-AFRICAN- and I can have a discussion on this at a later date- if we can figure out the mechanics of blogging!).  But… this- to me at least- raises the question of the relationship between SPLM N&S. The N/S divorce also resulted in a break between former allies. What does this mean, really?

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Time to call the dog killer


Not catcher, killer. This K9 assassin is usually an old policeman looking for a few extra pounds. He’ll {on demand of course} bring his old hunting rifle and temporarily solve your stray dog situation. I currently have around 8 or 9 miserable beasts that enjoy sleeping in front of my building and digging comfortable holes under my car to while away the hot hours until its cool enough to go sniff other dog’s asses and rummage through garbage{or whatever unemployed dogs do}.

Not really an ideal solution but the only one unfortunately.

One of these fine mornings I’m going to step on some dog’s tail and get rabies.

Tomorrow I’ll stop by the police station and grease some hands then wait for a few days to wake up to a macabre version of duck hunt .


 

Sunday, October 14, 2012

Looking a gift horse in the mouth


Rant*

According to Sudan’s older generation, the Colonizers left Sudan three gifts .Aljezira farming scheme, the civil service and University of Khartoum.

In their infinite wisdom, kindness and generosity of spirit, these three legacies would see Sudan through anything {if only the ungrateful Sudanese would take good care of them}.

Before reading on I would like to state that I believe that this is pure bishop.

Cynical asshole that I am, I believe a good deal of Sudan’s problems can be traced to these poisoned gifts.

Aljezira farming scheme { http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gezira_Scheme}, was essentially designed to supply cheap cotton to the British textile Industry. As the empire crumbled and Sudan found its independence, the mills of Lancashire fell silent and Cotton prices dropped. Farmers in the scheme felt they wanted to decide what to actually grow {gasp} and sell and not follow the dictates of the farming board. Subsequent mismanagement and division of plots and irrigation rights by inheritance left the scheme in its current state of ruin {as well as a ready scapegoat for all of Sudan’s agricultural shortcomings and a powerful example of Sudanese fucking up a good thing when left to their own devices.}

The Civil service was a sprawling affair designed to help keep control of colonized Sudan{for our benefit of course}.After the Angels left Sudan this morphed into a creaking groaning machine that made its business{archaic bureaucracy} into an art form .Long lines ,inexplicable fees, underpaid civil servants were part of a system which continues to plague Sudan until this day.

The University of Khartoum was Sudan’s first University and the factory which churned out its elite doctors, lawyers, literati and administrators. As only the crème de la crème were accepted [to be fair it was merit based, although your parents had to believe enough in education to sacrifice the money you would otherwise earn  working instead of studying}, students were housed ,fed and given generous bursaries .My own parents are proud graduates. These enlightened torch bearers are the cause for the current mess we are in.

So yeah, I kind of wish someone had shot that particular horse in the head and buried it with the gifts.

 

*Rant inspired by a visit to the city council and overhearing several conversations over three long hours in line.

Monday, October 8, 2012

New vocabulary for new republic


This is probably one of the funniest pieces I’ve read in the juba dailies.
Kudos, Ayom!

Check our her articles in the New Times.

New vocabulary for new republic
Guess what! Did you know there’s a Juba word for non-serious girlfriends? By Ayom


…….

Below, I list twenty terms which describe aspects of life in the new Juba. These terms come from a variety of sources: some, my friends and I have heard in the course of work and personal interactions, some I made up myself and one was invented by my mother Dr. Christina Abuk, a very clever and funny woman. I have included some phrases which are traditional, on the sole basis that I really like them. Some have their origin in Juba Arabic or Dinka, which are now mixing very thoroughly with English. One originates in the West African diaspora, but is included because it is irresistibly fitting to our situation. The loose rules governing selection are that the terms should be: descriptive; efficient, i.e. shorter or more specific than alternate terms; and/or funny. In case of a clash, the last characteristic over-rules all others. I would suggest that the developing language should be called ‘Jinglish’, though readers may have better suggestions.
I wish to emphasise that this is a humorous piece and contains no allegations against any particular person(s) or organisation(s). However, those who are familiar with my previous writing will know that there is usually a serious underlying point. In this case, that point is that humour and mockery are powerful weapons against those groups and individuals, such as corruptees, exploitative organisations and fraudulent nationality-seekers, working against the best interests of our nation. Should any reader feel they recognize themselves in certain of these definitions, perhaps they should take this as warning that their misdeeds are no secret and that offence is being taken by many of those who observe them. To my readers, use these weapons well and aim them accurately and fairly.

baby beny (noun phrase) Mocking term for a younger close relative of a high-ranking member of government, who despite having no job is regularly seen driving/crashing cars with GOSS plates, living the high life and intimidating low-level service industry personnel with the phrase ‘do you know who I am?’. Usually expects to be accorded the security status, respect and in-service benefits which are rightfully held by the illustrious older relative. Although the term is part Dinka, it is applicable to people of all ethnicities who fit the bill.
Source: AW Dhal, Juba 2012

bamba (noun) Juba term for a mistress or non-serious girlfriend. Derives from the Arabic term ‘bambara’, meaning a lightweight stool with a loosely-woven wire seat, often used in outdoor kitchens or backyards. Suggests that, like such a stool, the lady in question is inexpensive, lightweight, convenient and can easily be put away when no longer needed.
Source: Juba traditional, reported by C Kivy, 2012

bintoo (noun) Pejorative or mocking term for a Diaspora or IDP returnee, in particular one who adopts a boastful and sometimes dishonest attitude towards their exploits abroad and seeks to impose, on their native land, features of their  adopted nation. The word is a contraction of ‘been to’, as in ‘I’ve been to places you have not and therefore I know more than you do’. It appears that this term is of West African diaspora origin; however, it is so appropriate for present-day Juba that it merits inclusion here.
Source: reported to Dr. C Abuk, London 1990s

briefcase INGO (noun phrase) Pejorative term for an international NGO which retains such a high percentage of donor funds for its own staff and structures that this appears to be its core business. As in “an INGO that needs to come with a big briefcase, so that it can take away all the money”. The phrase is a riposte to the currently popular phrase ‘briefcase NGO’, meaning an NGO with no local constituency or actual programing, set up largely or solely to attract funding.
Source: local NGO member (name withheld to protect the little funding available), Bahr El Ghazal 2012

Dining Class (noun phrase) Humorous and mocking term for the beneficiaries of the proceeds of corruption. Derives from the verb ‘to eat money’. May be further subdivided to indicate the scale of the misappropriated sums involved, eg: Rakuba Dining Class, indicating low-level diners who have taken so little they must still eat in local rakuba restaurants; Expat Dining Class, indicating mid to high level diners who can afford to eat in expensive, expatriate-oriented Juba eateries; and Serena Dining Class, indicating diners who have taken so much they barely have to stay in Juba at all, and are instead more likely to be found in 5-star hotels in Nairobi, Kampala and beyond. Care must be taken not to confuse the Dining Class with diners who actually work for their money.
Source: AW Dhal, Juba 2012

footing (verb) To travel by foot, as in ‘I am going footing’. This term is part of an honourable tradition of terms for foot travel, which includes another of my favourites, the wry Nigerian ‘Legedez Benz’, as in ‘what car do you drive?’ ‘A Legedez Benz’.
Source: unknown/Juba traditional

gong gong gong Mocking Juba term for the sound made when women with a grown-out and unwashed hair weave knocks her knuckles on her head to relieve an itch which is too deep under the false hair to scratch. Anticipate this usage will rapidly shift, to refer to any woman with such a weave.
Source: modern Juba, reported by C Kivy, 2012

infant soldier (noun phrase) Mocking term for a young man, typically one trying to impress ignorant foreign girls, or a prospective rap star, who claims to have been a child soldier, despite the fact that he is much, much too young to have fought in the war. Often associated with a claim to be a ‘lost boy’, despite never having been involved in any of the tragic overland child exoduses which gave rise to the term.
Source: AW Dhal, Juba 2012

insile (noun) Respectful term for a person who remained in their native land throughout conflict, famine and hard times and was never in displacement or diaspora, ie the vast majority of South Sudanese. Derived from the word ‘exile’, in order to provide a brief term to balance and contrast with it.
Source: Dr. C Abuk, London 1990s

International Relationships, qualification in (noun phrase) Humorous term for the qualifications which might be said to be held by commercial sex workers, particularly those specializing in servicing the UN/INGO market. Can further be sub-divided to indicate the market level at which such workers function, eg: high school diploma in International Relationships (low-end worker, perhaps based in Jebel Market); first degree in International Relationships (mid-level worker, perhaps specializing in the hotel trade, may be ostensibly employed in another service industry, such as hospitality, which affords access to potential clients); Masters (or perhaps that should be Mistress?) degree in International Relationships (high-end worker who may be accommodated in an expensive hotel or apartment, or be the temporary ‘girlfriend’ of expatriate or wealthy local clients, may be ostensibly employed as an office worker or sales rep, occasionally graduates out of the sector altogether with the help of a visa and wedding ring). The sector is marked by extreme fluidity as talented students may readily upgrade their qualifications and those with personality or substance abuse issues may quickly regress to Jebel Market. Modules of such a qualification may include face-to-face marketing, manual dexterity and vehiclular services.
Source: unidentified commercial sex worker (and one clearly in the wrong job), Juba 2011

job inflation (noun) term for the process by which one’s professional qualification is automatically upgraded in conversation, eg a nurse being referred to as ’dictor’/’dictora’, a construction worker becoming an ‘engineer’, etc. Related to the term ‘honorific creep’, describing the process by which, say, a Director may have business cards describing them as ‘Honourable’ so and so, and the way people persist in calling high status individuals ‘Excellency’, despite the fact that the term is properly applied only to a head of state or an Ambassador.
Source: AW Dhal, Juba 2012

Kussii (noun) Juba term for the bottom of the range Toyota Harrier, given to a young lady as a reward for engaging in illicit relations with a wealthy man who is not her husband, though her performance of the act does not merit the gift of a more expensive model. Derives from an Arabic term for a female body part usually involved in such relations.
Source: traditional Juba, reported by C Kivy, 2012

miraya maafi (noun phrase, Juba Arabic)  A deeply unappealing and sometimes very rich man, who insists upon chasing ladies who are significantly more attractive than himself. Derives from the suspicion that such a man must lack a mirror (miraya) and thus have no idea of how he actually looks. As in: ‘I’m so sick of that man hitting on me even though I tell him ”no”’. ‘Which man?’ ‘The miraya maafi on the left’.
Source: AW Dhal, Juba, 2012

mith apuol (noun phrase) Juba term for an expensive V8 vehicle. Derives from the Dinka phrase for ‘the children are well’, implying that the possessor of said vehicle (of whatever ethnicity) is doing well.
Source: modern Juba, reported by R Mogga, Juba 2012

native (noun) Offensive term used by some diaspora returnees (see ‘bintoo’ above), to describe all South Sudanese who were not in diaspora (see ‘insile’ above). The term derives from the colonial British usage, where it was used to describe the subjugated indigenous peoples they were exploiting. It came to be associated with the supposedly uncivilized nature of such subjugated people and thus served as a justification for their exploitation, which was said to be in the best interests of the ‘natives’ (ref ‘white man’s burden’). The word ‘native’ actually means a person born in a place (eg Tony Blair is a native of the UK); thus, its use by locally-born bintoos is nonsensical  and betrays a regrettable lack of application to whatever educational opportunities they were afforded in their countries of refuge.
Source: a group of mean young ladies, who should know better, overheard in a Juba place of entertainment, 2012

on the road coming (prepositional/locative phrase) Mendacious or wishful phrase used by Juba professional drivers to explain to delayed customers where they are when asked why they are 45 minutes late for a pre-arranged pick-up. The term may in fact be of Ugandan origin, as the majority of Juba taxi drivers appear to hail from there.
Source: unknown/possible imported Ugandan usage

Somehow/somehowly (adjective) descriptive term for the speaker’s state of mind or well-being, the Juba response to the generally rhetorical question ‘How are you?’, as in ‘I am somehow’. Clearly this is not a new word, but its use in this way is new to me, and is most appealing and a little wistful. The phrase is a nice compromise between actually telling the questioner how one is, as in ‘I have a slight headache, my shoes are hurting, I hate my job and my love life is going nowhere’ (always the wrong answer), and simply lying, as in ‘Fine, never better’.  ‘Somehow’ sits between those two extremes, is brief and is very useful.
Source: unknown/traditional Juba

Ugandese (noun) Juba term for a Ugandan person (cf the less often heard: ‘Kenyanese’).
Source: traditional Juba usage

wewe (noun) Disparaging Juba term for Swahili-speaking foreigners, the use of which is often extended to include all East African foreigners, as in ‘those wewes over there’. ‘wewe’ is actually the Swahili word for ‘you’, and it is thought the local usage came about in response to the sound of spoken Swahili, which uses the word frequently.
Source: traditional Juba

you are who?/inta minu?/een nga? (salutation) the traditional Juba telephone greeting used by people who call your phone and do not greet you or identify themselves, but rather ask YOU who you are. Found in all known South Sudanese languages; English, Arabic and Dinka examples are given above.
Source: traditional Juba

Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Bloody boda bod a riders, roundabouts and….. what’s in a name?


I absolutely, without a shadow of a doubt hate all motorcycle riders in juba. ALL of THEM. I feel like they really don’t give a shit about their lives and have never heard of traffic rules (granted, half of juba has no clue what these are either).  But I’ve been lucky so far… until today.

Was driving to KonyoKonyo market after work- quite excited because I had bought some plants at the State nursery and was looking forward to buying some pots to repot these.  Come up to the round-a-bout that leads to Juba town and Juba Teaching Hospital when…. I hit a motorcycle rider and his passenger. This quickly escalates into one of those moments where I ask myself- why the ckuf im I in this country…

I get out of my car, the cop is yelling at me in Juba Arabic, I don’t understand a word… he motions me to get my car out of the round-a-bout because I am causing traffic… there’s a small crowd gathered at this point- motherfuckers just yelling shit in a language I don’t understand, body language all aggressive- I think someone (including one of the cops) is about to hit me.  And when I try to get into my car… one of the guys involved in the accident slams the car door against me in anger. (Of course I immediately have napoleon’s complex- my 5’6 frame leaps out of the car as though I can actually do something about the situation. We have a brief stare-down before one cop again yell somethings at me -this is one of those moments where I think… I really need to learn this bloody language)

Long story short- I have to drive these guys to traffic police… the motorcycle is following as is a cop car.  I’m driving dude that slammed the car door against me and acted like he was ready to throw a punch…im sorry I hit the guy but im also a quite livid

At the police station… *&^%%* more Arabic I don’t understand.  so I call up a friend to come help…. We have to fill out a form 8 incidence report, Initially the cops want me to sit at the police station while these guys go to the hospital to get checked over but my friend convinces them that since he’s driving, we should all go together. So we drive these guys to the hospital (Aweil dude had actually told my friend that he could’ve easily fucked me up.  He asks my name… and my father’s name (ein ng’a??) I’m from Aweil, malual bai/… he is like, she’s lying…. Turns out he’s from Aweil too and knew my father/ his family)

Drive to Juba Teaching Hospital, the two guys get checked over… one of them is told… there’s nothing wrong with you except a minor bruise.. Aweil guy.. we gotta get x-rays cause he’s had a previous surgery and says he thinks its gotten exacerbated. So we have to drive to a private clinic to get the x-rays (the teaching hospital doesn’t provide x-ray services? Something is off, south sudan). After >1hr of waiting, these come out… normal, nothing wrong here. By this time he’s calmed down because prior we had to stop by Home & Away restaurant- he had to meet someone to pass a message- and I met up with my bro-in-law- and his Northern Bahr el Ghazal crew- and they were basically telling Aweil dude… yo, this is so and so’s daughter and y’all come from the same place...

Have to drive back to the police station… on arrival there, Aweil dude receives a call from his uncle whom he tells, I got hit by xxx’s daughter- so I get handed the phone and the uncle is basically like, listen, y’all are family, I’ve told him to drop any charges and you guys can take care of whatever issues without involving the police (basically Aweil dude wants me to replace a phone he lost during the drive to the police station).  I cant get my car yet cause the other guy (the owner of the ride), didn’t come back to the police station  from the hospital so we’ll have to continue with that case.. bukra. (Meaning I could easily have slept in jailwaiting for him to come back and resolve the issue.) But for this half? At least its all sorted out… mainly because my father’s name still carries a lot of weight in Aweil/ Northern Bahr-el-Ghazal.

I guess I should feel lucky- I could easily have spent a night in jail. But damn. And I have insurance?